UNDERSTAND MY SKIN
Any skin type, whether it’s dry, oily, or combination, can have problems with dehydration. The effects may be more or less visible, but this water deficiency causes skin on your face and some or all of your body to feel uncomfortable, especially after bathing or showering. Although symptoms are very similar, dehydrated skin should not be confused with dry skin. These are two different skin problems.
Dehydrated skin appears as a lack of radiance and comfort with intense, persistent tightness.
The skin feels itchy, especially after washing and also has scales. This is an unusual, temporary state that is not necessary related to a “dry” skin type. This means oily skin can easily have times when it is dehydrated.
The skin is very sensitive to water deficiencies, that’s why it has a hydroregulation mechanism.
The skin is 70% water. Nearly 75% is located deep down in the dermis where it plays an important role in the skin’s resistance.
2 elements moisturise the epidermis:
Hydroregulation achieves a balance between these two aqueous components and it alone guarantees the skin’s physical and functional integrity. Three main factors contribute to hydroregulation: NMFs (Natural Moisturizing Factors), lipids in the horny layer and aquaporins.
NMFs are molecules that can bind water within the horny layer; they are called humectants. The most commonly known NMFs are urea and lactic acid.
Other substances used in cosmetics have the same properties; these include glycerine and xylitol.
The horny layer is made of cells without nuclei that are “cemented” by lipids called intercorneocyte lipids. The right quantity and quality of these lipids is necessary for the horny layer’s integrity and therefore its “barrier” function. When they are lacking or deteriorating, cellular cohesion is no longer guaranteed. The result is an increase in perspiration, also called Transepidermal Water Loss (TWL: permanent, light and natural evaporation of the water found in the body). Well-hydrated skin should be capable of retaining its water, hence the importance of the inter-corneocyte lipids.
Aquaporins are the channels through which water moves in the epidermis. These proteins are made by the keratinocytes (epidermal generating cells) and inserted in their membrane to allow water molecules to pass through. This movement is essential to the skin. The epidermis is not vascularised. All elements required for cellular life (mineral salts, vitamins, nutritional elements, etc.) that are carried by the blood to the dermis reach the surface layers of the skin thanks to aquaporins. Without aquaporins, the epidermis would not be able to “feed” itself.
Dehydrated skin is always a temporary condition that can be reversed with appropriate products
It is an alteration in the superficial layer of the epidermis that lacks water. This lack of hydration disturbs the skin’s barrier function and leads to discomfort.
On the other hand, dry or very dry skin is a permanent condition that describes a particular skin type that is lacking both water and lipids.
All skin types can become dehydrated in certain circumstances or during particular seasons.
A dermatologist will confirm your skin type and help you identify potential dehydrating factors, such as a change in work environment, swimming in a swimming pool, using an aggressive soap or shower gel, a recent illness or a medicated treatment (anti-cholesterol, etc.).
If you are able to identify the factor responsible for dehydration, you must correct it as soon as possible.
The aim is to reduce water evaporation, maintain a sufficient amount of water in the epidermis and repair the impaired skin barrier.
On you face and body, use products with a suitable pH that do not contain aggressive surfactants, such as a soap-free syndet or an emollient cleansing balm.
Twice a day after washing, remember to always gently apply a hydrating emollient product to repair the skin barrier and reduce tightness.
Protect yourself if you will be exposed to intense cold or UV rays. Remember to hydrate your skin after the pool to limit chlorine’s drying effect.
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